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Indoor Air Quality

Dust, dry or damp air and stale rooms sorted into the problem they actually are, then matched with the filtering, humidity control or fresh air that addresses it, rather than one device sold for all three.

01The air indoors

What Feels Wrong With the Air?

Each of these points at a different kind of problem, and the kind decides what helps.

Dust Settles Again Soon After Cleaning

Some dust is normal, but dust that returns quickly can mean the filter is loose or bypassed, the return ducts are pulling air from an attic or crawlspace, or the filter does not suit the system. A technician looks at where the dust comes from before suggesting a better filter.

Static Shocks and Very Dry Air in Winter

Cold outdoor air holds little moisture, and heating it leaves the air indoors drier still. Frequent static shocks and gaps opening in wood floors are the usual signs. A humidity reading confirms it, and a whole-house humidifier can add moisture back in a controlled way.

Air That Feels Clammy or Smells Musty

Too much moisture indoors leaves rooms feeling sticky even when they are cool, and lets mildew take hold in closets and basements. An oversized cooling system, humid outdoor air leaking in or a damp crawlspace are common causes, and each is handled differently.

Odors Linger and Rooms Feel Stuffy

Cooking smells that hang around for hours and a closed-up feel in the morning point at too little fresh air, which is common in newer or recently sealed buildings. The answer is planned ventilation rather than a filter, since filters do nothing about stale air.

Water on the Inside of Windows

Condensation running down the glass on cold mornings means the indoor air carries more moisture than the cold window can hold. A humidifier set too high, too little ventilation, or steam from cooking and showers with no way out can all cause it.

02Urgency

When an Air Problem Is Urgent

Most complaints about the air are about comfort and can be planned. A few are about safety and cannot.

Usually Able to Wait a Little

  • Dust that settles quickly after cleaning
  • Dry air and static shocks in winter
  • Stale air or lingering cooking smells
  • Condensation on windows on cold mornings

Worth Dealing With Today

  • A carbon monoxide alarm sounding
  • Any smell of gas
  • A burning smell from the system
  • Water pooling around the equipment

What to Do Right Now

None of this improves the air. All of it is for the moments when the air is a safety matter.

  1. Carbon Monoxide Alarm? Get Everyone Out

    Get everyone, pets included, out of the building into fresh air and call 911 from outside. Stay out until responders say it is safe, even if the alarm goes quiet.

  2. Smell Gas? Leave Without Switching Anything

    Leave the building without switching lights, appliances or the system on or off, and without using a flame. Call the gas utility or 911 once outside.

  3. Smell Burning? Switch It Off

    Switch the system off at the thermostat, and at its breaker if the panel is safe to reach. Leave it off until a technician has looked at it.

Indoor Air Quality

Talk to Lone Star Cooling and Heating

Serving Abilene, TX.

03The actual problem

Particles, Moisture or Stale Air?

Equipment for the air indoors does one of three jobs. Matching the job to the complaint is the whole decision.

Particles: Dust, Pollen and Pet Hair

The answer is catching more of what passes through the system: a better-fitting or higher-rated filter, a deeper media filter cabinet, or an electronic cleaner. Sealing return ducts that draw from dusty spaces often matters as much as the filter, because dirty air that slips around a filter is never cleaned.

Moisture: Too Dry or Too Damp

The answer is controlling water vapor, which no filter touches. A whole-house humidifier adds moisture through the heating season, and a whole-house dehumidifier removes it when cooling alone leaves rooms clammy. Each runs from its own humidity control rather than the thermostat.

Stale Air: Too Little Fresh Air

The answer is exchanging indoor air for outdoor air on purpose. That can mean exhaust fans that actually vent outside, a fresh air intake on the system, or a heat or energy recovery ventilator that swaps air while holding on to much of its heating or cooling.

04How it is assessed

How a Technician Sorts Out the Air

The complaint names a symptom. The assessment finds which of the three problems sits behind it.

The first look is at what the system already does. A filter that is the wrong size, sits loosely in its slot or is long overdue lets dust straight past, and return ducts with gaps can pull air from an attic, garage or crawlspace into every room. Humidity is measured rather than guessed, since how a room feels is a poor guide to it.

From there the building itself matters. A tight, recently sealed house holds on to moisture and odors that a leaky older one would lose by itself, and an oversized cooling system can leave rooms cool but damp. The right equipment follows from the cause, because a device aimed at the wrong problem adds running cost and changes nothing anyone would notice.

05Questions

Questions About Indoor Air Quality

Where should I start if the air in my house feels bad?

With what exactly feels wrong. Dust, dryness, dampness and stale smells have different causes, and a technician can check the filter, measure the humidity and look at how the building gets fresh air before any equipment comes into it. Often the first step is small, such as a filter that actually fits its slot.

Is there one device that fixes all of it?

No single piece of equipment handles particles, humidity and fresh air together. Some cover part of two jobs, such as a ventilator that also limits the moisture it brings in, but a building that needs help in more than one area usually ends up with more than one component.

Can the air in a house actually be measured?

Some of it can. Humidity is easy to read with a simple hygrometer, and particle counters and carbon dioxide monitors give a rough picture of dust and fresh air. None of these replaces a working carbon monoxide alarm, which is a separate safety device.

How do I know if a heating or cooling problem is urgent?

A smell of gas, a carbon monoxide alarm, a burning electrical smell, or no heat or cooling in dangerous weather: urgent. A system that runs longer than it used to, a new noise or one room that is off: worth a visit soon, but not tonight.

What information helps when calling about a heating or cooling problem?

What the system is doing, when it started, what the thermostat is set to and what it reads, and whether the outdoor unit is running. The age of the equipment and a photo of its label help a technician arrive prepared.

Lone Star Cooling and Heating

Get help with Indoor Air Quality

Call Lone Star Cooling and Heating, have us call you, or describe the issue.

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