(325) 219-0005

Furnace Ignition Repair

Gas furnaces that will not light, or light and then shut down, traced through the igniter, flame sensor, pilot assembly and pressure switch to the step of the lighting sequence that is failing.

01Ignition problems

How Is the Furnace Failing to Light?

Where in the lighting sequence the furnace stops is the best clue to which part has failed.

The Furnace Starts Up but Never Lights

The inducer fan runs and the furnace goes through its routine, but no flame appears. A cracked or worn-out igniter, a pressure switch that will not close, or a gas valve that never opens are the usual causes.

The Burners Light, Then Go Out

Flames appear for a few seconds and then vanish. The control board shuts the gas off when it cannot confirm a flame, and a coated or dirty flame sensor is the most common reason it cannot. Cleaning or replacing the sensor usually cures it.

It Tries Several Times, Then Gives Up

After a set number of failed attempts the control board locks the furnace out and stops trying, so unburned gas cannot keep building up. The lockout is protection, and the repair is whatever made those attempts fail.

The Pilot Keeps Going Out

Older furnaces keep a small standing flame burning all season. When it will not stay lit, a worn thermocouple, a dirty pilot opening or a draft across the burner area is usually the cause, and a technician checks the whole pilot assembly.

A Bang or Boom as the Burners Light

A loud ignition means gas collected for a moment before it caught, often because of dirty burners, a weak igniter or a gas pressure problem. Each hard ignition strains the heat exchanger, so the furnace is better left off until it is checked.

02Which pattern

Never Lights, or Lights and Drops Out?

These two patterns sound alike and point at different ends of the sequence.

No Flame Ever Appears

The furnace is stopping before the gas lights. A technician looks at the igniter, the pressure switch and the inducer that must prove the vent is drawing, and the gas valve and supply. A blocked vent or a cracked igniter is a frequent finding here.

A Flame Appears, Then Goes Out

Lighting works, but the furnace cannot hold on to the flame. The flame sensor is the first suspect, followed by its wiring and ground, then the condition of the burners and the flame itself. On older furnaces, a failing thermocouple produces the same result.

Furnace Ignition Repair

Talk to Lone Star Cooling and Heating

Serving Abilene, TX.

03Why it locks out

What the Safety Lockout Is Doing

A furnace that refuses to light is following rules written to keep unburned gas out of the building.

The control board opens the gas valve only after the pressure switch reports that the vent is drawing and the igniter has had time to heat up or spark. It then expects to see a flame almost at once. If the flame sensor does not report one, the gas is shut off again, and after a set number of failed tries the board stops trying altogether.

Older furnaces with a standing pilot work on the same principle through a thermocouple, which holds the gas valve open only while the pilot flame heats it. In every version, the lockout is a symptom rather than the fault. Forcing more attempts only repeats the failure, while finding the worn igniter, dirty sensor or blocked vent ends it.

04In the meantime

What to Do Right Now

None of this lights the furnace. All of it keeps a lighting fault from becoming a safety problem.

  1. Smell Gas? Get Out First

    Leave the building straight away without switching lights, appliances or the thermostat on or off, and without lighting any flame. Call the gas utility or 911 from outside, away from the building.

  2. Hear a Bang at Start-Up? Switch It Off

    If the burners bang or boom as they light, switch the heat off at the thermostat and leave it off until a technician has checked the furnace.

  3. Leave a Locked-Out Furnace Locked Out

    A furnace that has stopped trying to light is protecting the building. Leave the power and gas as they are, and mention the blinking light pattern when calling.

05Questions

Questions About Furnace Ignition Repair

Why does my furnace light and then shut off after a few seconds?

Most often the flame sensor, a thin metal rod that sits in the flame, has built up a coating that weakens its signal. The control board cannot confirm the flame and closes the gas valve as a precaution. If a clean sensor does not solve it, the wiring, the ground connection and the flame itself are checked next.

Is it safe to keep restarting a furnace that will not stay lit?

It is better not to. Each forced restart gives the furnace more attempts at a step that is already failing, and with some faults that means more gas released before a flame catches. The lockout is there to prevent exactly that, and it is safer left in place until the cause is found.

What is a hot surface igniter, and why does it fail?

It is a small ceramic element that glows hot enough to light the gas at the burners. The material is brittle and weakens with every heating cycle, and once it cracks it can no longer glow. Replacing it is one of the most common furnace repairs.

What information helps when calling about a heating or cooling problem?

What the system is doing, when it started, what the thermostat is set to and what it reads, and whether the outdoor unit is running. The age of the equipment and a photo of its label help a technician arrive prepared.

Should the system be switched off while waiting for a technician?

If it smells of burning, is leaking water, or the outdoor unit is humming without its fan turning, yes: switch it off at the thermostat. A system that runs but does not keep up can usually stay on until it is looked at.

Lone Star Cooling and Heating

Get help with Furnace Ignition Repair

Call Lone Star Cooling and Heating, have us call you, or describe the issue.

Prefer to talk?

Call (325) 219-0005